Table of Contents
- 1. The Chthonic Realm: Understanding the Southern Temple Axis
- 2. Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal: The Temple of the Great Death
- 3. Pura Beji and the Holy Water Spring: River Gorge Architecture
- 4. Pura Prajapati and the Ancient Cremation Cemetery (Setra)
- 5. Spiritual Etiquette: Crossing Consecrated Thresholds
- 6. Verified Sources & Scholarly References
To the casual tourist, the Sacred Monkey Forest of Ubud is a simian playground. But to the indigenous Balinese community of Padangtegal, the forest is first and foremost a consecrated cemetery and temple complex dedicated to the chthonic forces of life, death, and spiritual transmutation. Hidden beneath the towering canopy of nutmeg and banyan trees lie three distinct 14th-century temple compounds: Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal, Pura Beji, and Pura Prajapati. Together, these sanctuaries form the theological backbone of the forest, anchoring human life to the sacred cycles of the universe.
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1. The Chthonic Realm: Understanding the Southern Temple Axis
In Balinese spatial philosophy, space is structured along two fundamental axes: the mountain-to-sea axis (Kaja-Kelod) and the sunrise-to-sunset axis (Kangin-Kauh). The direction Kelod (toward the ocean and the downward realm) is associated with dissolution, ancestors, and the transformation of the soul after bodily death.
Because the Monkey Forest is situated on the southern (Kelod) boundary of Padangtegal village, it naturally serves as the village’s spiritual borderland with the unseen world (Niskala). Here, the energies of Lord Shiva in his destructive and purifying manifestations (Sang Hyang Siwa Rudra) and his divine consort Dewi Durga (goddess of death and rebirth) are venerated to purify the souls of departed ancestors and protect living villagers from spiritual affliction.
2. Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal: The Temple of the Great Death
Dominating the southwestern sector of the forest is Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal (The Great Death Temple of Padangtegal), originally constructed around 1350 CE during the Pejeng-Gelgel transition era. This temple serves as the primary sanctuary for Lord Shiva and Dewi Durga.
| Architectural Element | Location in Pura Dalem | Theological Symbolism |
|---|---|---|
| Candi Bentar (Split Gateway) | Main Outer Entrance (Jaba) | The cleaving of Mount Meru, separating profane external world from sacred ground. |
| Rangda Relief Carvings | Staircase & Gateway Balustrades | The terrifying manifestation of Durga; long tongue, fangs, and pendant breasts, warding off demonic forces. |
| Pelinggih Meru Tumpang Tiga | Inner Sanctum (Jeroan) | Three-tiered shrine dedicated to the supreme cleansing fire of Lord Shiva. |
The stonework throughout Pura Dalem Agung is carved from soft volcanic tuff (Paras Cadas). Over centuries, humid microclimatic humidity has carpeted the bas-reliefs in rich emerald-green moss, giving the stone sculptures an organic, primordial presence that feels grown rather than built.
3. Pura Beji and the Holy Water Spring: River Gorge Architecture
Descending a steep flight of carved stone steps into the deep river gorge flanking the forest’s western boundary reveals Pura Beji, the Holy Spring Temple. Perched directly above the rushing waters of the Tukad Yeh Wos stream, this sanctuary is dedicated to Dewi Gangga, the goddess of sacred waters.
The Architecture of Purification
Pura Beji consists of three distinct functional enclosures: an upper pavilion for ceremonial assembly, a middle court containing sacred waterspouts fed by an underground natural fissure, and a semi-secluded lower bathing pool. Here, villagers perform ritual purification (Melukat) to cleanse physical illnesses, negative emotional attachments, and spiritual pollutions before participating in temple anniversaries.
The entrance to Pura Beji crosses an extraordinary stone bridge flanked by two massive carved monitor lizards (Biawak) and mythological serpents whose tails form the balustrade, symbolizing the protection of vital waters.
4. Pura Prajapati and the Ancient Cremation Cemetery (Setra)
Located near the eastern perimeter of the forest, shadowed by colossal roots of an ancient weeping fig tree, stands Pura Prajapati, adjacent to the village cemetery (Setra). Dedicated to Lord Prajapati (the personification of cosmic creative power that dissolves and reconstitutes biological forms), this temple oversees the souls of villagers awaiting cremation.
In Balinese custom, when a villager passes away, the body is buried in the adjacent cemetery plot temporarily. Every five years, Desa Adat Padangtegal organizes a massive, communal cremation ceremony (Ngaben Masal). Bodies are respectfully disinterred, purified through elaborate rites at Pura Prajapati, and placed into towering animal-shaped sarcophagi (Lembu) to be consumed by flame, releasing their souls into the upper heavenly realms.
The energy around Pura Prajapati is quiet, somber, and deeply reflective. The banyan roots wrap around ancient carved stone tomb markers, creating an evocative image of the physical human vessel returning naturally into the embrace of the soil. For the Balinese, death is not an abrupt cessation of existence, but a transformative transition toward ancestral rebirth, an ongoing cycle witnessed daily by the simian sentinels resting in the branches above.
5. Spiritual Etiquette: Crossing Consecrated Thresholds
While travelers are free to photograph the mossy exterior walls and decorative stone pathways of the Monkey Forest, strict religious prohibitions apply to the inner sanctuaries:
- Inner Sanctuaries (Jeroan) are Closed to Sightseers: The carved inner courtyards of Pura Dalem Agung and Pura Beji are reserved exclusively for practicing Balinese Hindus wearing full ceremonial attire (kamen, selendang, and udeng) who are actively praying.
- Do Not Mount Temple Walls or Shrines: Never sit, climb, or place cameras on temple altars (Pelinggih), decorative stone carvings, or sacred statues.
- Menstrual and Mourning Prohibitions: In accordance with Balinese ritual cleanliness laws (Cuntaka), individuals who are menstruating or those in direct family mourning following a recent death must not enter temple grounds.
- Quiet Demeanor in the Forest: Shouting, playing loud music on portable speakers, or running disrupts both the sanctity of praying devotees and the emotional stability of resident macaque troops.
6. Verified Sources & Scholarly References
- Balai Pelestarian Kebudayaan (BPK) Wilayah XV: Kajian Arkeologis Pura Dalem Agung Padangtegal dan Percandian Lembah Yeh Wos (2020).
- Covarrubias, Miguel: Island of Bali (Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1937 / Tuttle Publishing).
- Dinas Kebudayaan Kabupaten Gianyar: Data Pura Cagar Budaya dan Pura Kahyangan Jagat Gianyar.
- Goris, Roelof: Ancient History of Bali and Sacred Temple Cartography (Udayana University Press).